Day one highlights: SS21 roots for activism and craftsmanship – fashion and trends

Day one of the Lotus Make-up India Fashion Week organised by the Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI) (in association with DLF Emporio/The Chanakya as the luxury partner) commenced with designers showcasing their Spring Summer 21 lines with strong social messages. Rajesh Pratap Singh’s high fashion film featured
timeless handwoven ensembles that support our craftsmen. On the other hand, Vaishali S’s digital showcase followed a zero-waste approach just like designer Anjana Bhargav’s prêt offering DHI. Nitin Bal Chauhan paid homage to Jallianwala Bagh martyrs with thought-provoking prints. The day ended with Namrata Joshipura’s high octane glam collection. Here’s presenting some of the key highlights.


Nitin Bal Chauhan


Inspired by the gruesome incident of Jallianwala Bagh massacre, the designer brought back memories from the darkest hour in Indian history. He was shaken by the massacre when he visited Amritsar earlier last year. He drew sketches and paintings of men shouting and running, which were recreated as prints on tops and dresses. Models, who essayed the role of victims, wore chains around the neck and head, cage-like structures were seen as accessories and exaggerated headgears.



After the pandemic fashion rediscovered and realigned itself, relaxed-fit, handspun clothing took over. This season, designers focused on sharp cuts, subtle hues and sustainable ensembles. Designer Anjana Bhargava’s collection is realised on the principles of zero wastage that inspires responsible living. We saw long, collared kurtas with slits, asymmetric tops, mandarin collar tops, jumpsuits with drawstrings, waist-cinched dresses with exaggerated sleeves and bathroom slippers making it to the style radar.

Payal Jain


An amalgamation of Benaras and Mcleodganj was seen in this soul-searing outing. The film starts with a girl floating in water wearing a deep red ruched dress; white petals are sprinkled around her – a free-spirited scene from the ghats of Benaras. The collection emanated a relaxed, boho-gypsy vibe with free-flowing silhouettes such as chiffon maxis, ruched dresses; cold-shoulder sheer printed maxis, off-shoulder crochet tops paired with relaxed pants.

Rajesh Pratap Singh


The visually sumptuous film titled was rather thought-provoking, with the first scene depicting models lying on the ground wearing artfully layered looks of colour blocked stripes, balmy pastel hues and whispering pristine whites. Ensembles crafted in lush, silk satin fabrics came to life with his signature pintucks. Models were seen emoting various moods, from laughter and sadness to anger, and added a new dimension to the creations with their contemporary dance moves. The oxygen cylinder dolls used as props were the metaphor for his craftsmen.

Vaishali S


Shot in the picturesque locales of Italy by film director Federico Cianferoni, Vaishali S’s collection titled Rebirth starts with models sauntering around a forest in beautifully crafted pieces made of handwoven textiles in various dramatic shapes. From the soothing greens to sublime whites and romantic reds, her collection had all the solid colours effortlessly interplayed in contemporary silhouettes. The collection was an artistic effort to showcase the experience of rebirth.

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